In chapter three of Sharon Marcus’
“Between Women” reading, she spends a majority of the text discussing the
social principles surrounding fashion plates. Specifically, she analyzed the
inherent homoeroticism found in these plates and how Victorian women viewed
them. This homoeroticism did not mean that all Victorian women were suffering
from repressed homosexuality, but rather it is an example of a seemingly
different system of gender roles and feminine ideals than the ones we hold today.
However, I think a similar concept can be found in our current society.
After we discussed the fashion
plates in class, I realized how easily this concept can be tied to the way
women interact with Instagram, specifically accounts focused on fashion, beauty/make-up,
and modeling. A common theme that I have heard my heterosexual female friends
joke about is that they spend more time looking at women on Instagram than men;
not because they identify as queer, but rather in aesthetic admiration. While
this sentiment may be shared among many women, I think that Marcus’ in-depth
analysis of why women interacted with
fashion plates the way they did can be transferred into why women obsess over
other women online.
Just as in Victorian times, a
hallmark of contemporary femininity is the admiration of other women who might
represent a more “ideal” version of femininity. This is sometimes known as an
innocent “girl crush” by heterosexual women, however, it is evident that there
is often a gray area between wanting to be like
another woman and wanting to be with another
woman. Nevertheless, these “crushes” are normalized by our heteronormative society,
much like how women were expected to act in Victorian times.
Even the fact that Instagram photos
are small, simple images reflects their similarity to fashion plates. Whether
the focus is fashion, beauty, or the woman herself, Instagram provides a
perfect opportunity to observe and admire other women from a place of
anonymity. Just as fashion plates reflected this concept of voyeurism by
showing images of a woman gazing at another woman without her noticing, with
Instagram someone can view as many photos of a single person or many people as
they want without anyone ever knowing. This anonymity is more important now
than in the Victorian era, because now we have specific identities for women
who exhibit what we would consider homosexual behavior.
In a more problematic connection,
both fashion plates and Instagram photos emphasize strict regulations for
female fashion. They also both exhibit the connection between fashion and
social class. In Victorian times, fashion plates depicted clothes and trends
that were most accessible to aristocratic women. Now, the most followed
fashion/beauty/model Instagram accounts are typically upper class white women advertising
the current styles and trends. In both time periods, fashion represents the “ideal”,
which makes it inherently exclusionary to people who either physically or
financially can’t attain the levels of beauty found in these images.
Just as Marcus analyzed the sociocultural
aspects behind fashion plates, it is possible to view Instagram photos through
a similar lens that focuses on female homoeroticism, gender roles, and social
codes. Through this, it can be seen that certain aspects of Victorian sexuality
have not progressed as much as we think they have in contemporary society.
Along with Instagram, certain Tumblr blogs are also reminiscent of Victorian fashion plates. Blogs that are devoted to a ‘Sapphic/Sappho’ aesthetic sport pastel or soft color pallets, blog/reblog women’s fashion, flowers, glitter, poetry- ideal images of ideal ‘femininity.’ These blogs, unlike Instagram, however are generally openly managed by women for women, by gay/lesbian/bi women. Marcus says of the fashion plates that they ‘were images of women designed for female viewers (p 121).’ Still, these blogs are followed by and sometimes even managed by straight women and men as a type of ‘voyeurism’ on one hand (women) and a type of exploitation or objectification on the other (men). And still, these blogs reflect the same classism and uphold the same beauty standards addressed in Sydney’s argument. They also reflect a level of privilege- of acceptance of same-sex relationships- that I would argue is not based in reality. Photographs of slim, long-haired, white women embracing, on dates or in throws of passion are liked and reblogged in mass while images of WOC, full bodied women, or even women with shorter hair or ‘masculine’ aesthetics are practically unaccounted for. These blogs represent the romanticism of the ‘lipstick lesbian.’ The Victorian fashion plates, in Sharon Marcus’ ‘Between Women’ also represent ‘a desirable vision of fashionable femininity (p 121).’ Unlike the fashion plates and certainly unlike Instagram, I have found in ‘my research’ that there are a number of overtly sensual and even sexual Sapphic blogs, in which the homoeroticism is in no way concealed.
ReplyDeleteFor an idea of Sapphic blogs:
http://sapphic-sweethearts.tumblr.com/
http://rubyfruitandmarigolds.tumblr.com/
http://begayandvirtuous.tumblr.com/
https://woclovingwoc.tumblr.com/
After reading your post it really opened up my mind and thought process about Instagram. You really hit a clear point of how relate-able they both are. However can we really say Instagram is just like Fashion plates when Instagram includes pictures of boys not just females. In fashion plates it was just female but Instagram is boys as well. I do agree with you that women admire other woman based off their fashions and beauty they truly have. Marcus states fashion plates 'were images of women designed for female viewers (p 121). Yet, on Instagram there are male viewers not just female viewers. Fashion plates cannot be the exact same as Instagram but I would say it is very similar which that could be consider the modern fashion plates.
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